Who’s ready for farmers market season to start? I know I am! I love when the weather finally changes and the cold is gone! Spring is one of my favorite seasons because it means winter is finally gone and everything is turning green. Our farmer’s market doesn’t start around here until June but that just gives me more time to whip up a couple more bags to carry all my goodies.

I am all about finding ways to reuse or recycle. A great way to start is by utilizing reusable bags when you get groceries. I have even gotten my husband to remember to grab a bag when he heads to the store. It’s the little things that make a difference and oh what fun it is to make your own bag that you can fit inside your purse so you’ll never forget it.

If you haven’t had a chance to try the Yarn Bee Sugarwheel Cotton from Hobby Lobby then this would be a great time to give it a go. It is very soft and easy to work with. The bag has some stretch but didn’t lose it’s shape after use. I’m very happy with the durability of the yarn. See materials for amount of yarn needed if you are unable to get your hands on a sugarwheel.

This pattern is written in US Terms

Materials

  • 4.5 mm hook
  • 1 Yarn Bee Sugarwheel Cotton- 5 oz.- 335 yards.  Any cotton medium (4) weight yarn will work. Refer to gauge.
  • Yarn Needle for sewing in ends
  • Scissors
  • Stitch Markers (optional)

Skill Level– Intermediate

  • The pattern uses basic stitches but a beginner may find the strap construction difficult. This bag is worked as one piece.

Gauge: Measurements are for reference. This design is stretchy in nature so your measurements may change after use.

  • Bottom of the bag- 8 rounds in 4”
  • Body of the bag- 9 (dc, ch1) in 4”

Bag Measurements

  • Bottom of the bag: 10”
  • Body of the bag: 13”
  • Length of Bag with straps: 23”

Stitch Abbreviations

  • Ch- chain
  • sc- single crochet
  • dc- double crochet
  • ch-1 sp- chain 1 space
  • rep- repeat
  • sl st- slip st
  • bet- between
  • sk- skip
  • sts- stitches
  • st- stitch

Special Stitch

Crab st: Insert hook into the next full stich to the right, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops. (This stitch is also known as the reverse sc.)

Here are a few notes on the pattern before you begin.

  • You will be joining at each round with a slip stitch.
  • For the bottom of the bag you will be working your dc’s in between the dc clusters of the last row. I have included additional pictures for reference.
  • For the strap of the bag you will be working in the chain space the first round. It’s important that your chain isn’t too tight otherwise it will be difficult to get your hook in the chain space.
  • This bag is worked all as one piece. You will not break the yarn to make the handles. This is why the pattern is labeled intermediate. It can be difficult to work single crochet stitches into the chained spaces.

Start with a Magic Ring then begin Round 1

Round 1: Ch4 (counts as 1dc + ch1), *1dc + ch1 in the ring* rep from * around 10 more times. Sl st join to ch1. (24 sts)

Round 1

Round 2: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc in the same st as your ch3, ch1, *[2dc + ch1] in the next ch-1 sp bet dc clusters* rep from * around. Sl st join to the top of the ch3.(36 sts)

Round 3: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 2dc in the same st, *sk 2dc, 3dc in the next sp bet dc clusters*, rep from * around and sl st to join to the ch3. (36 sts)

As I mentioned in the notes section above, you will be working your dc clusters in the space between the previous rows clusters.

Round 4: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 3dc in same st, *sk 3dc cluster, 4dc in next sp bet dc clusters*, rep from * around and sl st join to the ch3. (48 sts)

Round 5: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 4dc in same st, *sk 4dc cluster, 5dc in next sp bet dc clusters*, rep from * around and sl st join to the ch3. (60 sts)

Round 5: Here is another view of the dc clusters being worked in the space between the previous rows dc clusters.

Round 6: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 5dc in same st, *sk 5dc cluster, 6dc in the next sp bet clusters*, rep from * around and sl st join to the ch3. (72sts)

Round 7: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 6dc in same st, *sk 6dc cluster, 7dc in the next sp bet dc clusters*, rep form * around and sl st join to the ch3. (84 sts)

Round 8: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 7dc in same st, *sk 7dc cluster, 8dc in the next sp bet dc clusters*, rep from * around and sl st join to the ch3. (96 sts)

Round 9: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 7dc in same st, *sk 4dc, then work 2dc in the sp bet sts, sk 4dc, work 8dc in the next sp bet dc clusters*, then rep from *-* around and sl st join to the ch3. (You will have 12-8dc clusters and 12-2dc clusters with a total of 120 sts)



This is what the bottom of your bag will look like before you reach Round 10. Round 10 will help round out the bottom.

Now the mesh part of the bag begins!

Round 10: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), dc in each st around and sl st join to the ch3. (120 sts)

Here’s a view of the bottom with Round 10.

Round 11: Ch4 (counts as 1dc + ch1), *sk next st, 1dc in the next st, ch1*, rep from *-* around, sl st join to the ch3. (60 dc, 60 ch1, Total sts 120)

Round 12: Ch4 (counts as 1dc + ch1), [dc, ch1] in each ch-1 sp around, sl st join to the ch3. (120 sts)

Here is round 11 and 12.

Note: you will be alternating skipping the first or last dc and ch-1 sp to keep the rows at 120 sts and it helps reduce the gap at the seam of the bag. Your seam of ch4’s will be straight.

Round 13: Ch4(counts as 1dc + ch1), sk the 1st ch-1 sp and dc, [dc, ch1] in each ch-1 sp around to the last dc and ch-1 sp. Sk the last dc and ch-1 sp, sl st join to the ch3. (120 sts)



Round 13- As you can see I have skipped the last space. It’s important you follow this pattern for the mesh part of the bag.

Round 14: Ch4(counts as 1dc + ch1), [dc, ch1] in each ch-1 sp around, then skip the last dc and ch-1 sp, sl st join to the ch3. (120 sts)

Round 15: Ch4(counts as 1dc + ch1), sk 1st ch-1 sp and dc, [dc, ch1] in each ch-1 sp around, sl st join to the ch3. (120 sts)

Here is a view of the progression of your seam as you work the mesh part of the bag.

Round 16 – 31: Rep rounds 14 and 15.

Round 32 & 33: Ch1, [sc, ch1] in each ch-1 sp around, sl st join. (120 sts)

Round 32 and 33.

During the handle rounds you may find it beneficial to place a stitch marker at the beginning of your row.

Round 34: Ch1, *[sc, ch1] in each ch-1 sp for 15 sts, ch 44, attach ch in the 16th st from where you started the ch with a sc, then rep from *-* around for second handle. For the last sc before the sl st join you will be placing it in the last ch 1-sp then sl st join.  (150 sts)



Round 34: You are detaching to chain then reattaching your chained piece to your work. This is a view of one chained handle.

Note for Round 35 and 36 of the handle you are only work 14 of the [sc, ch1] because the last rows ch1 on the 15th st is the 45th sc needed for the handle.

Round 35: Ch1, *[sc, ch1] in each ch-1 sp for 14 sts, sc in the next st, (now we are at the handle), sc in each ch sp (45 sc total), sc in the next ch-1 sp*, rep from *-* one more time then sl st join. (148 sts)

Round 36: Ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), *[sc, ch1] in the ch-1 sp then across for 14 sts, sc in the next st (this is st #15 without the ch1), (now you’re back at the handle), sc in each st across (45 sts in handle)*,  rep from *-* one more time then sl st join. (148 sts)

Round 37 & 38: Rep round 36.

This is a full view of the finished strap. Note that they are not very thick.

Round 39: Ch 1, crab st in each st of the handle, on the sides of the bag you will be working the st into the ch-1 spaces only. Sl st join. (120 sts)

Here is a close up of the crab stitch border finish on the handle.


Here is a view of the sides of the bag. In round 39 you can see you’re working the crab st in the ch-1 spaces only.

Ta-da! You now have a beautiful market bag to take with you this summer. I’d love to see your finished projects! Be sure to tag me on Instagram @sunsetknots and I’ll feature you in my stories!

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Happy Hooking!

Marianne – Sunset Knots

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You may make items to sell with my patterns. In exchange, I ask that you link back to me at www.sunsetknots.com. Do not distribute any of my patterns as your own. Please do not use any of my photos as your own, it may be misleading to your customers. If you have any questions please contact me at sunsetknots@gmail.com or feel free to message me on Facebook or Instagram.

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