Mommy And Me Seahorse Amigurumi

Posted on May 15,2016

by Tracy Smith

Crochet Ideas

This mommy and me seahorse amigurumi set was so fun to make and they turned out so cute! My daughters especially love carrying around the little baby seahorse because it fits perfectly in their little hands!

This pattern is one of the five patterns in my ocean themed amigurumi series. If you’re looking to make some more little sea creatures, the series also includes a Sea Turtle, Whale, Jellyfish, and an Octopus!

This pattern includes instructions for making the mommy and the baby sea horse. Mommy seahorse measures about 6.5 inches from top to bottom, while baby seahorse is about 5 inches. These seahorses are worked from the bottom up, starting with the tail and ending with the head (in one piece). Then the mane, snout, and fins are attached at the end. I hope you love making the Mommy and Me Seahorse Amigurumi crochet pattern!

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Materials:

Worsted Weight yarn – You can use any worsted-weight yarn for this project. I used I Love This Yarn in Coral Sparkle and Paint Party. Remember that not all worsted-weight yarns are the same – some are thicker or thinner than others, which may affect the finished size of your project a little bit.
Safety eyes – I used 9mm size for the mommy seahorse and 8mm for the baby.
- As an alternative to safety eyes, here is a great tutorial for making crochet eyes.
Crochet Hook – I used a 3.5mm crochet hook for the Mommy Seahorse and a 3.25mm hook for the Baby Seahorse. You can use the same hook size for both seahorses. I used the smaller hook because I wanted to make the baby a little smaller and to keep the stitches tighter.
Stuffing
Optional – Black embroidery thread for eyelashes (or you can separate a strand of black yarn instead)
Yarn needle – I find that bent yarn needles work the best for sewing amigurumi pieces together.

Stitches Used:

Ch – chain
Sl St – slip stitch
SC – single crochet
HDC – half double crochet
DC – double crochet
INV DEC – invisible single crochet decrease – insert hook into front loop of next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 remaining loops on hook. There are many tutorials on this on YouTube. Check one out if you’d like to see the invisible decrease in action.

Important Notes:

Magic Circle – Make a circle with your yarn, insert crochet hook into circle and draw up a loop. Use this loop to start your first chain 1 of the pattern. You can find many YouTube videos if you need help making the magic circle.
Continuous Rounds – This pattern is worked in continuous rounds without joining. After you finish the stitches of one round, start right on the next round without joining between. You may want to use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to keep track of where one round ends and the next starts.
Stuff as you go – Add stuffing to the seahorse as you work it up. Make sure you are finished stuffing before the opening gets too small when working the decrease stitches between the body and the head, as well as when you are finishing off the head. You’ll want to add enough stuffing to make the piece firm, but not so much that you can see the stuffing through the stitches.
Tension – For amigurumi projects, it helps if you crochet with a tighter tension. If you usually crochet loosely, it might be helpful for you to go down a hook size to keep the stitches closer together.

Mommy Seahorse

TAIL/BODY

Stuff as you go – Do not add stuffing to the bottom of the tail because you will be curling it up when you are finished the body and head. Wait until the tail/body gets wider before you start stuffing. Stuff firmly, but not so much that the stuffing shows through the stitches. Make sure you add enough stuffing before the opening gets too small at the top of the body before you start the head.

Round 1: Magic circle, chain 1 and make 4 SC stitches into ring (4)

*Leave the yarn tail from the magic circle hanging out so you can use it to stitch the tail up later.

Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (6)

Rounds 3-16: SC in each stitch around (6)

Round 17: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 5 (7)

Round 18: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 6 (8)

Round 19: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 7 (9)

Round 20: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 8 (10)

Round 21: *2 SC in first stitch, SC in next. Repeat from * one more time, then SC in last 6 (12)

Round 22: *2 SC in first stitch, SC in next. Repeat from * two more times, then SC in last 6 (15)

Round 23: *2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2. Repeat from * two more times, then SC in last 6 (18)

Round 24: SC in first 3, *2 SC in next, SC in next 2 stitches. Repeat from * two more times, then SC in last 6 (21)

Round 25: SC in each stitch around (21)

Round 26: SC in first 3, *2 SC in next, SC in next 3 stitches. Repeat from * two more times, then SC in last 6 (24)

Rounds 27-32: SC in each stitch around (24)

*Start stuffing your seahorse. Don’t worry about getting the stuffing all the way down into the skinny part of the tail because you will be curling it up. The stuffing should start where the tail gets wider and starts to become part of the body.

Round 33: INV DEC, SC in next 2 stitches, repeat around (18)

Round 34: SC in each stitch around (18)

Round 35: INV DEC, SC in next stitch, repeat around (12)

Round 36: SC in each stitch around (12)

*Make sure you have added enough stuffing to the body by this point.

Round 37: INV DEC around (6)

*You have now completed the body portion and will start increasing to make the head. The round count will start back at 1 to make it easier to keep track of the rounds for making the head.

Round 1: 2 SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 2: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next, repeat around (18)

Round 3: 2 SC in first stitch, SC in next 2 stitches, repeat around (24)

Rounds 4-9: SC in each stitch around (24)

*Using the shape of the body to guide you, find the front of the seahorse. Insert safety eyes between rounds 7 and 8 centered at the front of the face approximately 7 stitches apart. If you’d like to your seahorse to have eyelashes, first place your safety eyes where you’d like them to be, but don’t secure them yet. Next, remove the eyes – this will create a hole to help you see where you want the eyelashes to go. Use your yarn needle to stitch on the eyelashes. Then insert the eyes again and secure the back.

*Start stuffing the head. You may need to use something narrow like a chopstick or a pencil to get some stuffing in the neck area to keep the head sturdy.

Round 10: INV DEC, SC in next 2 stitches, repeat around (18)

Round 11: INV DEC, SC in next stitch, repeat around (12)

*make sure you have added enough stuffing to the head at this point.

Round 12: INV DEC around (6)

Fasten off, Sew closed.

SNOUT

Round 1: Magic circle, chain 1 and make 6 SC stitches into ring (6)

Rounds 2-4: SC in each stitch around. (6)

Make a slip stitch in the next stitch and then fasten off, leaving a long tail.

MANE

Chain 20. [SC, HDC, Ch 1, HDC, SC] in the 2^nd chain from your hook, skip a stitch, sl st in next stitch, *skip a stitch, [SC, HDC, Ch 1, HDC, SC] in next stitch, skip a stitch, sl st in next stitch. Repeat from * across. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

TAIL FIN

Row 1: Chain 4. In the 4^th (farthest) chain from the hook, DC, ch 1, DC, ch 1, DC. Chain 2, turn.

Row 2: 3 DC in first stitch, slip stitch in chain space from previous round, 3 DC in next stitch, slip stitch in the chain space, 3 DC in last stitch. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

If you are making the baby seahorse, continue onto the pattern below. The instructions to assemble the seahorses are following the baby seahorse pattern.